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More New Holland CHAIN BALER questions

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brandonh

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Hey yall. As some may remember I picked up a nice little 845 for $800 a few months back. Im real happy with it. It doesnt do the job of my belt baler, but I still love it. It makes a nice roll. Anyway, I was wonder about the size indactor. Its kinda confusin where to stop at. I always stop at the line below STOP. But my rolls arent super tight and I was wondering if I could run it on up a little more to pack it in a little better. I also have about 5 more inches on the springs that I could tighten them down some more. Any opinions? I have a manual but I always like operators opinions. I dont feel like Im filling the chamber as much as I could. I acually like the softer rolls because they unroll easy for calves. But I hate how squat sometimes. Ive learned they take more twine and slower speeds. But I think I can twig them a little more and pick up a gear
 

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I have been known to run my 850 all the way up to the jagged lines above the word stop. I will admit that is probably pushing it to the limit, and hard on parts most likely. But the 850 makes a much heavier bale, and probably hard on the floor chains due to the weight, especially when baling a little heavier hay or a little green. As a rule I run it on top of the stop, or slightly above.
 
yea some of my floor guides are shot and need replaced. So Im gonna fix those this winter. I think runnnin it up higher should make a heavier roll hopfully
 
My 848 has an adjustable trip that will dog out the pickup mechanism and shear the pin when it gets full. Does the 845 have something similar? I usually shear it when I'm finishing the last windrow and hoping I can get it all in the baler without starting a new bale. . .

Paul
 
yea its got a shear pin. i probably should run it until it breaks and then ill know how full i can run it.
 
The slower you ground speed and keeping the PTO RPM up will make a denser bale. Size has nothing to do with it. If you want to see how big a bale you can make just start pushing the limits. The baller will tell you. I run my 855 with the shear bolt protection unhooked. If I get to daydreaming and the bale gets too big the chains start growling at me. It shakes me back to reality real quick.
 
Brandon, if your trip isn't adjusted right, you might cause some damage before it shears. I see lots of chain balers with the bars bowed out from overstuffing. Do you have a manual for this baler. My manual describes the necessary adjustments real good.

I like the trip on mine - my hearing is not as good as it should be, and if I get in a bind, it's covering for me.

The post about slower ground speed/higher PTO speed = tighter bales is correct. I try to bale slower if the weather is in my favor. I've made some dumpy looking bales right ahead of the storm. . .
 
I usually run my 846 indicator right into the warning bars. The advice about slow down, throttle up is right on. I've made bales so tight I couldn't get the spear into 'em.

As far as replacing the floor guides, I just made some up out of some channel I picked up at the steel yard. The NH ones are way too pricey for what they are.
 
#1 I'll guess you have not taken the time to get the manual right?? Well with my NH850 when I first got it I made a simple mistake I drove to slow and use a higher RPM and made a bale so tight you could not get a spike into the bale no matter how hard you tried. In a chain baler the tighter you have the springs the tighter the bale also the slower you go the tighter the bale. Over filling it will not make a bale tight but it will sooner or later brake a chain and a broken chain is $1000 repair. I have the opposite problem you had because I drove to slow and boy what a heavy bale since I could not move them with my Ford 841 with a loader. Loader would try to pick them up but didn't because the back tires came off the ground and that was with fluid in the tires and the back blade on with extra weights on the blade
 
yea Ive got a manual. But it really doest tell where to stop. i been stopping before i get to STOP. So ill try running it on up to stop just below the jagged line. My shear pin is at the gear boxso its not a ajustable. Ill see about the pickup.
 
yea Ive got a manual. But it really doest tell where to stop. i been stopping before i get to STOP. So ill try running it on up to stop just below the jagged line. My shear pin is at the gear boxso its not a ajustable. Ill see about the pickup.
 
How did those channels hold up that you made? The reason I ask is that I bought some steel from a farm supply, and made up my own, and they were worn out within the season. I had to revert back to the ones from the dealer and pay the price. Of course the steel was just mild steel, and perhaps yours are better grade channel?
 
i curious also because I can get like 1/4 steel channels that will weld into the old channels. I dont see those chains wearing thru 1/4in steel in one season. But I dont know. I had a guy tell me that those channels were made of stainless steel but I dont believe him. Because hes usually ful of crap.
 
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