troy bilt tiller update

larry@stinescorner

Well-known Member
thanks for all the input on my post about the tiller, I appreciate it. I did buy the tiller for 475 , It is original one owner ,given to the guy I bought it from by his uncle.I was just reading the paperwork from the factory and the tiller was available with either a 6 hp techemseh or a 7 hp kohler or an 8 hp b+s This one has a Kohler 7 hp , It came with a bumper which Im going to put on, and a blade which must have been stored outdoors,its got some rust on it,. I based my decision that I can fix my old tiller in the winter and sell it next spring and not come out too far behind but still be able to do my garden this season, A good friend of mine looked it all over for me last night and we changed the oil and lubed it all up, I will post more pictures when I get it to the garden in pa , thanks again ..Larry
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Nice looking tiller. Dad has one just like it.

We thought we didn't need a bumper. Then one day when putting it in the shed just barely tapped the air cleaner on a post and the carb. ear snapped off. Ordered a new carb. and a bumper ! So I'd for sure put that bumper on !
 
I agree on the bumper. Mine had one already installed, and that bumper proved its' worth the very first time I encountered some HARD ground, which caused me to lose grip of the handle, and that rear tine tiller took off across the yard doing its best to imitate a bucking bronco, and doing a right fine job of it. That would be about the same time I learned exactly what the depth control is for. I love that old Troy-Bilt Horse, but I very quickly gained a very healthy respect for it.
 
$475 ain't a bad deal! I believe ours was $957 when new & it don't owe us a cent. To this day I still don't know where that little tiller gets all of her power. It'll just about till the garden for you, too.

Mike
 
She's a beauty, Larry, and well worth the price. Put on the bumper--you'll find it handy. One note if you've never used a Troy-bilt--they'll turn in their own radius if you just tip them a tiny bit toward the inside of the turn--yet another thing that those long, strong handlebars are useful for. I think you'll also like the owner's manuals--they were famous for being very descriptive, well illustrated and easy to follow.
 
The tine are about shot, you can get aftermarket replacements from STENS. Also the tires are on wrong. When the tines turn forward the lug type tire SHOULD NOT be install like on a farm tractor. They need to RESIST the forward motion of the tiller. If the tines on a rear tine tiller turn to the rear, then the lug tire are mounted like a normal tractor because it must pull against the action of the tines.

Kent
 
Same set up as this one. It took me awhile to find one of these, can"t recall how many times someone beat me to it. There was a late model one down the road, someone was moving, just saw the sign, was like $250, like new, I made a U turn and just as I pulled in, someone already bought it, so after numerous attempts by answering ads on craigslist, one guy had one for sale, told him I"d be over with cash in hand, did not know whether he wanted to sell, OK...... so another year, saw this one, was the first caller, ah ha !!! felt like I won the prize on the radio by being the correct caller, was exhausted from work too, made myself get over, pay the man and gave him $10 for fuel to drop it off. I like them, they do a good job, you can make it easy by preparing a soil bed with clean, deep loose soils, lots of organic content, well drained, they can be jumpy and wear tines in the rock/stone filled soils we have, especially when dry, I did 2 soil beds at our horse farm and it walks through it like nothing, if in sod bound, best to turn it with a plow, disc, then till, of course you already know this, just adding to the thread, best thing about that 7HP kohler, gravity fed to the carb, no fuel pump like the 8HP magnum, and they start on 1 pull, everytime. Best of luck with it !


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That"s a great tiller. My Dad bought one new, we used it at home for the garden for 10 years. Then it came to our business and has had quite a bit worse life than tilling gardens. It"s been here for 20 years I"d say, and still going strong. You got a good one. By the way, this old one is still better than a newer one Dad bought.
 
That 7Hp Kohler or the later 8HP magnum is plenty for one of these, you don't have to use full throttle, choose your depth wisely and if you can prepare a soil bed, they work with ease in those conditions, I think what they were powered with was a good fit.

The only misleading thing about these is thinking they will work in hard, sod bound or similar kinds of soils, take to much of a bite it will take off on you, throttle up too much, same thing, they take some getting used to, but there are lots of em still around.
 
I wish mine had the Kohler engine. Getting the Tecumseh engine rebuilt is impossible if the crank needs turned.
 
I dunno Larry, they always came from the factory like that, I've never had any traction issues, except in deep/soft materials, not in the photo, (thats home & was reclaimed from sod by using this tiller was in sod for almost 10 years. Hey maybe there's something to it on the tires, always something to learn.

Tines, I thought if they were worn, they will be sharp, easily noticed along the shank(further up the tine to the base) and especially at the tip, my fathers PTO model is definitely worn from all those years here, in these soils but now used in soft material, not an issue, this 7HP one(photo above) has some tines worn and some look close to new, squared off on the ends, worn ones just have less of a flat edge on the ends, always wondered why some of the tines wear faster than others, regardless, worn tines or not, both still turn up a good seed bed. I have a box of N.O.S. ones, just don't think I'll ever really need to put em on. The other one(below) with worn out tines works well in the one patch of deep black old manure/sand/loam. There is a couple of feet of this soft potting like soil, still does a great job, 1 pass in april, weeds grass took over, then trimmed it to the dirt with a string trimmer, did one more pass, then planted. In this kind of soil, works like lab conditions, and is why I say, if at all possible, to make ones patch consist of easy soils, nothing to it when you can do that, wore out one works like new.

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Nice score, have a newer 5HP pony, it does good, not as good as old ones, has a plastic throttle position control on front, sticking out, breaks off level with carb if you bump anything, guess how I know, wish my had bumper, newer ones dont
 
What you say does make sense. But I do believe Troy built shows them to be on they way these are. I should try turning ours around then maybe it would hold back better when taking too deep a bite. Darn things are built too top heavy too. doesn't take much of a slope in soft soil for one to want to flop over on you. BTDT
 
Hal,I need a spacer to hook up the bumper brace It is part #1561 in the book,how do I send for it or where can I get it ? Also,I dont really need the dozer plow if you know anyone who needs it. THANKS.., Larry
 
That was what I was going to comment on, the roll cage or bumper or whatever you want to call it. By all means I would recommend installing the roll cage, since that will help protect the engine if the tines grab in hard soil and the machine takes off. That can easily happen and it could result in a bunch of beat up tin if the engine hits something solid. I plan to rig a handle mounted kill switch on my re-engined Troy-Bilt, as I have had it run away a little ways a couple of times. No damage though.

That is a nice looking machine, and with the Kohler engine, maybe well worth $475 if it all works as good as it looks. Obviously it has been stored inside, as the decals don't stay it that kind of condition outside very long. Hope it works out great, but I still would fix the old machine if I had one.
 
every one ive seen has the tires on like a farm tractor,incuding the ones right from the factory. Bill M.
 

We've had one (Horse) for years and I can tell you...in HARD Clay soil, it will NOT make any difference which way the tires are on...!!!
It WILL dig in and SKATE, Dragging you, with YOU hanging on to it..!!!!
Low Gear and only digging in an inch per pass helps..
Wonderful machine, but not many Women will even be able to turn it on the ends...(if the soil is loose, she "may" be able to hold it, going straight)..
 
If that's the spacer that connects the lower bracket to the transmission case I would set the engine guard on the tiller to get an idea how long that spacer needs to be. Then use a piece of 3/4 round stock aluminum. Then have someone with a lathe and drill the hole. I think that was a 3/8-NC bolt so use a clearance drill like 13/32. Hal
 
Here's the old phone number for Gardenway parts Dept. Try it to see if it's still good. Hal
1-800-269-6215
PS: MTD answered.
 
Hey Larry, I enjoy your pictures. I'm on the western side of PA. But all the parts are available for those machines. Last year went about putting a new rear worm gear in. Thats a place to check if you haven't done so. Look at the rear end oil, and see if any brass shaving come out. That means its worn. Its pretty easy to work on. But anyway all the parts are available and the service I've had is all really pleasant. The bumper is nice keeps everything from hitting the engine and important parts. Also makes a great place for tying it down if your transporting. These tillers run for ever. Our was purchased new in 1972 and still runs like a champ. So you might want to keep it around. O and if you ever have any troubles starting check the points. Its a great place for moisture to sit and wreak havoc. Sorry for the long post but its stuff i've learned in my 20 years.
 

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